Types of Wallpaper Installation

1. Paste-the-Wall

The adhesive is applied directly to the prepared wall.

Commonly used for:

• Non-woven wallpaper

• Some vinyl/non-woven products

• Some murals

Advantages:

• Faster installation

• Easier handling

• Less paste table work

• Often easier to remove

2. Paste-the-Paper

The adhesive is applied to the back of the wallpaper.

Commonly used for:

• Traditional paper wallpaper

• Some vinyl wallpapers

• Grasscloth

• Specialty wallpapers

Depending on the manufacturer, the paper may require booking after pasting.

3. Booked Wallpaper Installation

After paste is applied to the wallpaper, the strip is folded paste-to-paste and allowed to relax for the manufacturer's specified time.

This allows the adhesive to activate and the paper to relax before hanging.

Important: Booking time varies by wallpaper manufacturer and material.

4. Unpasted Wallpaper

The wallpaper does not have adhesive applied at the factory.

The installer applies the appropriate adhesive during installation.

This is common with many higher-end wallpapers.

5. Pre-Pasted Wallpaper

The wallpaper has dry adhesive already applied to the back.

Water activates the adhesive.

The installer typically wets the material according to the manufacturer's instructions before hanging.

6. Peel-and-Stick Installation

The protective backing is removed and the wallpaper is applied directly to the wall.

This requires careful positioning because the adhesive is pressure-sensitive.

Important: Wall preparation is particularly important with peel-and-stick products.

7. Double-Cut / Overlap-and-Cut Seaming

Two pieces are overlapped and cut through both layers to create a precisely matched seam.

This can be useful in certain specialty installations but must be appropriate for the specific wallpaper and substrate.

8. Straight-Match Installation

The pattern lines up at the same horizontal position from one strip to the next.

This generally produces less waste than a drop match.

9. Drop-Match Installation

The pattern must be shifted vertically from one strip to the next to maintain the pattern.

This creates more waste and requires careful planning.

10. Reverse-Hang Installation

Alternate strips are hung in opposite directions.

This is sometimes specified for certain solid-color, textured, or specialty wallpapers to minimize visual shading or color variation.

Never reverse-hang unless the manufacturer recommends it.

11. Railroaded Installation

The wallpaper is installed horizontally rather than vertically.

This is sometimes used for:

• Grasscloth

• Textiles

• Specialty materials

• Large feature walls

It is highly dependent on the product and room dimensions.

12. Mural / Panel Installation

Each panel is installed in a specific numerical sequence.

The installer must carefully maintain:

• Panel order

• Pattern alignment

• Seam alignment

• Image continuity

A Professional Wallpaper Installer's Classification

Wallpaper Materials

• Traditional Paper

• Non-Woven

• Vinyl

• Textile/Woven

• Grasscloth/Natural Fiber

• Peel-and-Stick

• Murals

• Metallic/Foil

• Specialty/Designer Wallpaper

Installation Methods

• Paste-the-Wall

• Paste-the-Paper

• Pre-Pasted

• Peel-and-Stick

• Booked Installation

• Mural/Panel Installation

• Specialty Installation

• Railroad Installation

Preparation Services

• Existing Wallpaper Removal

• Wall Sanding

• Skim Coating

• Surface Repair

• Primer/Sealer

• Mold/Mildew Treatment where appropriate

• Final Surface Preparation

Types of Wallpaper

1. Traditional Paper Wallpaper

   • Paper face and paper backing

   • Usually requires paste

   • Can be delicate during installation and removal

2. Non-Woven Wallpaper

   • Made from a blend of natural and synthetic fibers

   • Dimensionally more stable than traditional paper---NOT GOOD FOR PEEL AND STICK

   • Often installed using paste-the-wall

   • One of the most common modern wallpaper types

3. Vinyl Wallpaper

   • Vinyl surface with paper or non-woven backing -----Can work with peel and stick 

   • Durable and washable

   • Available in smooth, embossed, textured and printed versions

4. Woven/Textile Vinyl

   • Vinyl surface with a textile or fabric-like backing

   • More durable and often heavier

   • Removal can require additional preparation

5. Grasscloth / Natural Grasscloth

   • Made from natural grasses and fibers

   • Each roll is unique

   • Usually installed with paste

   • Seams are intentionally visible

   • Generally not recommended for high-moisture areas

6. Fabric/Textile Wallpaper

   • Actual fabric fibers or textile material

   • Can include linen, silk, cotton and other materials

   • Requires careful handling because it can stain or stretch

7. Peel-and-Stick / Self-Adhesive

   • Pre-applied pressure-sensitive adhesive

   • No traditional wallpaper paste

   • Installation requires careful alignment and smoothing

8. Foil / Metallic Wallpaper

   • Metallic or foil surface

   • Shows wall imperfections easily

   • Requires extremely good wall preparation

9. Mural Wallpaper

   • Large-scale image or artwork

   • May be paper, non-woven, vinyl or other material

   • Usually requires precise panel sequencing and alignment

10. Bamboo / Natural Fiber Wallpaper

• Natural materials such as bamboo, reeds or other fibers

• Similar preparation considerations to grasscloth

• Seams are generally visible

11. Flock Wallpaper

• Raised velvet-like fibers applied to a backing

• Delicate and requires careful handling

12. Beaded / Embellished Wallpaper

• Contains beads, crystals, glass, metallic elements or other decorative components

• Requires specialized handling and installation techniques

13. Cork Wallpaper

• Natural cork material applied to a backing

• Heavier and thicker than conventional wallpaper

14. Faux type papers that imitate 

Wall Preparation:

If you're preparing walls for a high-quality wallpaper installation, the goal is not simply to make the wall look smooth. You want a uniform, sealed, properly primed surface that allows the wallpaper adhesive to bond consistently and, just as importantly, allows the wallpaper to be removed later without destroying the drywall.

Step-by-Step Wall Preparation Using a Wall Sander & Romans PRO-999 or a Pigmented Paint

1. Inspect the walls

Before sanding, inspect the entire surface for:

• Nail holes, screw holes, and dents

• Previous wallpaper adhesive

• Loose paint

• Drywall seams or visible imperfections

• Previous repairs

• Texture or orange peel

• Grease, dirt, or other contamination

Why this is important: Wallpaper is much less forgiving than paint. Small imperfections that disappear under paint can become very noticeable once wallpaper is installed, especially with smooth, light-colored, or high-end wallpaper.

2. Remove loose material

Scrape away loose paint, old wallpaper, adhesive residue, and anything that isn't firmly bonded to the wall.

Do not try to sand your way through large areas of loose material. Remove the loose material first.

Why this is important: Primer and wallpaper adhesive cannot compensate for a poorly bonded substrate. Anything loose underneath can eventually cause the wallpaper to fail.

3. Repair imperfections

Fill nail holes, dents, cracks, damaged drywall, and other imperfections with an appropriate joint compound or patching compound.

Allow repairs to dry completely before sanding.

Why this is important: Wallpaper follows the contour of the wall. Repairs that look acceptable before wallpapering can become visible through the finished installation.

4. Sand the walls

Using your wall sander, sand the entire wall systematically.

For most wallpaper preparation, you're looking for a smooth, uniform surface, not necessarily a perfectly polished surface.

Pay particular attention to:

• Joint-compound edges

• Previous repairs

• Raised seams

• Rough areas

• Paint ridges

• Texture transitions

Use appropriate dust extraction on the wall sander whenever possible.

Why this is important: Sanding removes high spots and creates a consistent substrate. It also prevents ridges and imperfections from telegraphing through the wallpaper.

5. Inspect after sanding

Don't rely solely on your hand.

Use good lighting and inspect the wall from different angles. Run your hand over the surface to identify remaining ridges or depressions.

If you find imperfections, repair them and sand again.

Why this is important: Once wallpaper is installed, correcting a wall imperfection usually means removing the wallpaper. Spending additional time during preparation is far cheaper than correcting a finished installation.

6. Remove sanding dust

Thoroughly remove all sanding dust before priming.

Use a vacuum with a brush attachment followed by a clean, slightly damp microfiber cloth if appropriate for the substrate. Allow the wall to dry completely.

Why this is important: Dust between the wall and primer can interfere with primer adhesion and create a weak or uneven surface.

7. Apply Roman PRO-999 Primer/Sealer

Apply Roman PRO-999 RX-35 according to the manufacturer's directions using a quality roller and brush for the cut-in areas.

Maintain an even coat and avoid heavy buildup, runs, or missed areas.

Allow the primer to dry completely before wallpaper installation.

Why this is important: This is one of the most important steps in professional wallpaper preparation. A quality wallpaper primer:

• Seals porous drywall and joint compound

• Creates a uniform surface

• Helps prevent the adhesive from soaking unevenly into the wall

• Improves wallpaper adhesion

• Makes positioning and adjusting wallpaper easier during installation

• Helps prevent seams from failing

• Makes future wallpaper removal substantially easier

• Helps protect the drywall surface during future removal

8. Inspect the primed wall

After the primer dries, inspect the wall again under good lighting.

Look for:

• Missed areas

• Roller lines

• Rough spots

• Remaining repairs

• Sanding scratches

• Surface contamination

If necessary, lightly sand imperfections, remove the dust, and spot-prime the repaired areas.

9. Final installation check

Before hanging the wallpaper, the wall should be:

Smooth → clean → dry → uniform → sealed → properly primed.

At this point you're ready to proceed with the appropriate wallpaper adhesive and installation method.

The key point   The wall preparation is not cosmetic busywork. It is part of the installation system.

Wallpaper is only as good as the surface underneath it. Proper sanding and primer create the controlled substrate necessary for a professional installation and significantly reduce the risk of visible imperfections, adhesion problems, open seams, and drywall damage when the wallpaper eventually needs to be removed.

How to Removal for traditional paper, non-woven, or standard printed wallpaper unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise.

Paper Wallpaper Removal

1. Test the wallpaper

   • Start at a seam or corner.

   • Try lifting the surface with a putty knife.

   • If it peels off in large sheets, continue dry.

   • If only the printed surface comes off, you'll need to remove the backing separately.

2. Remove the top layer

   • Pull slowly and keep the material close to the wall.

   • Work from seams whenever possible.

   • Avoid pulling straight outward, which can damage drywall.

3. Score the remaining backing

   • If water isn't penetrating the backing, lightly score it.

   • Don't aggressively score drywall.

4. Apply wallpaper remover

   • Apply warm water or a commercial wallpaper-removal solution.

   • Let it soak for about 10–15 minutes.

   • Work in manageable sections rather than soaking the entire wall.

5. Scrape

   • Use a sharp 6–10" scraper at a shallow angle.

   • Keep the backing damp while scraping.

   • Reapply remover to stubborn areas instead of forcing the scraper.

6. Remove adhesive

   • Wash the wall with clean water and a sponge.

   • Change the water frequently so you're removing paste rather than spreading it around.

   • Make sure all loose paste is removed.

7. Let the wall dry completely

   • Don't prime or skim coat while the wall is still damp.

8. Repair and prep

   • Sand remaining rough areas.

   • Skim coat any damaged drywall or uneven areas.

   • Sand smooth.

   • Apply a quality wallpaper primer before installing the new wallpaper.

Professional tip

Before starting the whole room, spend 5 minutes testing one small area. That tells you whether you're dealing with strippable wallpaper, peelable wallpaper with a backing, or a fully bonded paper. That one test can save a lot of unnecessary wall damage.

How to remove Grasscloth

For grasscloth wallpaper, removal is usually more labor-intensive than woven vinyl because the natural fibers can tear apart and leave a paper backing behind.

Best method for removing grasscloth

1. Test a seam first

   • Start at a corner or seam and gently lift the grasscloth with a sharp 1–2" scraper.

   • Try pulling it slowly and parallel to the wall.

   • Some grasscloth will peel off relatively easily; other installations will leave the paper backing behind.

2. Remove the grasscloth face

   • Work from the seams.

   • Use a sharp scraper to get underneath stubborn areas.

   • Don't aggressively pull straight out from the wall—you can remove the drywall paper or skim coat.

3. Remove the paper backing

   • Once the grasscloth is off, wet the remaining backing with warm water or wallpaper-removal solution.

   • Let it penetrate for approximately 10–15 minutes.

   • Re-wet stubborn areas rather than scraping them dry.

4. Scrape carefully

   • Use a wide, sharp scraper at a shallow angle.

   • Keep the backing damp.

   • If the wall starts becoming soft or the drywall paper begins lifting, stop soaking and adjust your technique.

5. For heavily pasted installations

   • Light scoring can help the remover penetrate the backing.

   • A wallpaper steamer can work, but I would use it cautiously on drywall because excessive steam can damage the gypsum board and drywall paper.

   • For a professional job, I'd generally favor controlled moisture over prolonged steaming.

6. Wash the wall

   • Once the backing is removed, wipe away residual paste.

   • Allow the wall to dry completely.

7. Prep for the new wallpaper

   • Scrape any remaining loose material.

   • Skim coat damaged areas as necessary.

   • Sand smooth.

   • Apply a quality wallpaper primer before installing the new paper.

Important with grasscloth

Don't expect the wall to be perfect after removal. Grasscloth is frequently installed over walls that weren't prepared to the same standard you'd use for a high-end wallpaper installation. You may find seams, drywall damage, old paste, or unprimed areas underneath.

How to remove woven textile vinyl wallpaper:

If you're removing woven textile vinyl wallpaper, the key is determining whether it is vinyl-faced with a fabric/textile backing and whether it was installed over primer with a standard paste. These can be considerably more difficult than ordinary vinyl.

Best removal method

1. Test whether the face strips

   • Start at a seam or corner.

   • Try pulling the vinyl face back slowly.

   • If the vinyl face comes off while leaving a fabric/paper backing behind, that's ideal.

   • If the entire material comes off together, proceed carefully rather than aggressively scoring it.

2. Remove the vinyl face first

   • Use a sharp 1–2" scraper/putty knife to get under an edge.

   • Pull low and parallel to the wall, not straight outward.

   • Work slowly. Pulling too aggressively can pull the drywall paper or skim coat off.

3. Deal with the remaining textile backing

   • Once the vinyl face is gone, lightly score the remaining backing if necessary.

   • Apply a wallpaper-removal solution or warm water with a sponge/pump sprayer.

   • Don't soak the wall. Give it 10–15 minutes to penetrate.

   • Re-wet as necessary.

4. Scrape

   • Use a wide, sharp scraper at a relatively shallow angle.

   • If the backing is coming off in small pieces, keep it damp rather than trying to force it off dry.

5. If the backing won't release
   
   This is where I'd be careful as an installer. If the wall was properly primed with something like Roman PRO-977 Ultra Prime or another wallpaper primer, you have a much better chance of removing the backing without destroying the substrate. If it was installed directly over painted drywall, drywall mud, or poorly primed walls, removal can become a wall-repair job very quickly.
   
   

One important distinction

If you're dealing with true textile-backed vinyl rather than a conventional paper-backed vinyl, don't automatically use a Tiger/Piranha scoring tool aggressively. The textile backing can actually make the material stronger and more difficult to penetrate, while excessive scoring can damage the wall underneath.